You will also need additional containers for post-cure/clean up of your resin parts. The benefit to the type chosen in this build is that you get a variety of sizes that scale easily, so that extensive design modifications are not needed. This build includes plans for a build platform that fits a specific set of Tupperware available at 'wallyworld'. Funtodoo, Form1+ and Spark/Ember resin formulations are likely suitable.īuild Platform and Plastic Tupperware vat This build has been tested with G+ from Makerjuice. , are the 2 most seemingly popular and affordable options for UV resin suitable for DIY resin printers such as the one featured in this build.

You can modify this firmware using the Arduino environment to further suit your needs. The firmware I used is modified for 5/16 standard threaded rod and has end-stops disabled. None of these modifications constitute needing to know anything in-depth about programming. There are some basic modifications needed depending on the hardware you choose. This build features a RAMPS 1.4 board, stepper drivers and an Arduino Mega 2650 with standard Sprinter firmware. Ramps 1.4 or Arduino based electronics capable of running at least (1) nema 17 stepper motor Your main objective is frame rigidity and ambient light blocking.

Pretty much any kind of enclosure can be designed for this 3D printer. 2 pices of MDF cut to provide a mount for the axis, projector and stable footing for the machine. The version shown here is as simple as it gets. A more budget minded and adventurous person could even choose a drawer slide, but you may find that rigidity and smooth sliding in the z-axis will be a useful feature.Ĥx4 sheet of 1/2in MDF or equivalent material and hardware I choose a minimal version of this:īelow I will include a striped down parts list for the axis build. There are 2 known choices, although others may work.ġ) Acer P1283 DLP Projector (eBay or other online)Ģ) Acer H6510BD DLP HD projector (eBay or other)Īlmost any linear axis that is belt driven or screw driven will work. This style of resin printer is different from a FormLabs 3D printer and some others in 2 ways.ġ) It uses a DLP projector rather than a laser to cure each layer.Ģ) It shines the light source from the top rather than up from the bottom.Īdvantages over laser based bottom up and DLP bottom up designs: A projected slice cures each layer and builds the part. Ī DLP projector is used to cure UV setting resin one layer at a time while a moving axis drops incrementally into the vat of resin. As their project develops, more DIY applications might emerge. If you are interested in learning more about this will be one of your best community resources for knowledge relating to the topic.Īutodesk Spark recently released more information and support data for SLA 3D printers that use DLP chips. There are many good Instructables and resources that contain more exhausting detail about DLP resin 3D printers and background information. The entire 3D printer (projector and resin included) can be built for just about $500 or less which makes it one of the cheapest bang-for-your-buck 3D printers using SLA resin out there. This version build is budget conscious, has a low part count, can easily be upgraded and scaled in size. It has some advantages in simplicity, scalability and disadvantages in minimum feature size and print time. This orientation of the light source is similar to other large scale industrial SLA machines. This Instructable is about building a simple yet versatile resin (SLA) 3D printer that uses a cheap DLP projector to build the part from the 'top down'.

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